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More than 530 archeological sites exist on the island, some more than 7,000 years old. The Nicoleno, who survived on shellfish and sea mammals, lived in homes made of whale ribs with seal skins stretched over them, said Steve Schwartz, an archeologist on the island.
The islanders were renowned for their hand-carved stone whale, seal and fish sculptures. Archeologists have also found intricate fish hooks, harpoons and woven baskets.
"We have had archeological work going on here since the 1870s," Schwartz said. "If you go around the world you'll find artifacts from San Nicolas Island in museums."
In 1835, Spanish missionaries decided to remove the Indians from the island. But one was mistakenly left behind, a 12-year-old girl who lived alone for 18 years. Her story was told in author Scott O'Dell's bestseller, "Island of the Blue Dolphins." She was rescued in 1853 and taken to Santa Barbara, where she died of disease a few weeks later, Schwartz said.
During World War II, San Nicolas was primarily a lookout post, searching for Japanese ships and submarines. After the war, it became a missile test center and San Clemente Island, near San Diego, became a bombardment range. Neither island is part of Channel Islands National Park.
Before a missile is fired at or over San Nicolas, it undergoes rigorous tests in the laboratory.
"They do thousands of tests on computers and then maybe two or three live firings on the island," Schenk said.
But amid all this shooting and carefully planned destruction, wildlife has flourished.
Every winter, more than 25,000 California sea lions and 15,000 elephant seals breed on San Nicolas, biologists say. Island foxes, endangered on most other Channel Islands, thrive there in isolation, far from predatory birds such as the golden eagles that devour them on Santa Cruz Island.
Grace Smith, a biologist on San Nicolas, said there are 450 island foxes on San Nicolas.
"We have the highest density of island foxes anywhere," she said. "There are no threats here. I think the Navy presence has actually helped."
Officials say they often juggle testing plans to protect wildlife, waiting until elephant seals or whales move to avoid accidents.
"We don't want a missile test over a pod of whales," said Paul Knight, deputy director for programs on the island.
Vegetation has been cut back a few yards on each side of the roads to keep island foxes, which like to stay among plants, from wandering into traffic. Signs warn drivers to beware.
"It surprised me, but the environmental regulations out here don't impede us in any way," Schenk said. "That a testing facility and natural resources can coexist is amazing. It's been a great education."
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